The Scenic Drive to Kusatsu
One of the unexpected highlights of the day was actually the drive to Kusatsu.
We drove along National Route 292, and the scenery was absolutely stunning. The winding mountain roads offered beautiful views at every turn, and we found ourselves making multiple stops just to admire the landscape and take photos. It was one of those drives where the journey felt just as enjoyable as the destination.
From the scenery and surroundings, I believe we were passing through one of the ski resort areas. Although there wasn't any snow during our visit, it was easy to imagine how lively and picturesque the region would be in winter.
Unfortunately, we couldn't complete the entire route as planned. Due to volcanic activity, part of the highway has been closed, and our navigation rerouted us downhill midway through the journey. While it was a little disappointing not to experience the full route, the detour still provided plenty of spectacular mountain views.
Watching the Yumomi Performance
After leaving the Snow Monkey Park, we made our way to Kusatsu Onsen and arrived at around 4:25 PM, just in time to catch the famous Yumomi performance.
Traditionally, the hot spring water in Kusatsu is too hot for bathing, so long wooden paddles are used to cool the water without diluting it. During the The Yumomi show, the staff demonstrate this process while singing traditional songs and rhythmically stirring the steaming water.
The tickets were reasonably priced, and it was interesting to learn about this unique local tradition. However, if I'm being honest, it did feel a little like a tourist attraction designed primarily for visitors. I'm glad we experienced it once, but it wasn't the highlight of our time in Kusatsu.
Checking into Yuyado Tokinoniwa
After the show, we checked into Yuyado Tokinoniwa 湯宿 季の庭 , a ryokan-style hotel that is clearly quite old but offers an impressive level of service.
The first thing that caught our attention was the beautiful garden. It was well-maintained and created a peaceful atmosphere that immediately made us feel like we had escaped the busy sightseeing schedule of the past few days.
The hotel facilities were excellent. There are separate public baths for men and women, which switch sides the following morning so guests can experience both bath areas. There are also private onsen baths available on a first-come, first-served basis, which is a nice option for those who prefer a more private experience.
One thing we really appreciated was the continuous hospitality throughout the day. Complimentary coffee, drinks, and late-night snacks were available, making the stay feel very welcoming and comfortable.
The room itself was much larger than we expected.
It featured a kitchenette, a tatami living area, and a separate sleeping space, giving us plenty of room to relax. Some room categories even come with a private in-room onsen, allowing guests to enjoy the hot spring experience without leaving their room.
After several days of driving, sightseeing, and walking, the extra space was something we really appreciated.
Dinner and Breakfast
Dinner was a Wagyu beef set meal, which was enjoyable and beautifully presented. That said, we couldn't help comparing it to the amazing dinner we had on our first night of the trip, which remains our favourite meal so far.
Even so, the quality of the food was good, and both dinner and breakfast were satisfying. The ryokan clearly takes pride in its dining experience, and having meals included added to the convenience of the stay.
A Quick Stop at Yubatake
The next morning, after checking out at 11:00 AM, we made a quick stop at Kusatsu's main town area and the iconic Yubatake for some photos.
Steam rising from the hot spring channels creates the classic Kusatsu scenery that appears in so many travel brochures. Even though our stop was brief, it was the perfect way to end our visit before continuing to our next destination.
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