Life between trips

354 Ogimachi, Shirakawa, Ono District, Gifu 501-5627, Japan Hakusuien came highly recommended by my husband’s friend, so naturally I went in with fairly high expectations. Located in the heart of Shirakawa-go, it’s a convenient and popular lunch spot, especially for tourists and tour groups. But after trying it myself… I’d say it was more “okay” than memorable . The restaurant has a nice traditional setup, with tatami-style seating and a classic countryside feel. It does give you that “I’m eating in Shirakawa-go” experience, which is part of the charm. Food Experience The Highlight: Hida Beef on Magnolia Leaf  飛騨牛 朴葉味噌 We each ordered the Hida beef cooked on a magnolia leaf with miso teishoku , which is one of their signature dishes. The beef itself was tender and flavourful The miso added a nice smoky, savoury taste That said, it didn’t quite live up to expectations. Also, I accidentally left the beef on the leaf for too long and it ended up getting burnt, so do keep an eye on it ...

Tucked away in the remote mountains of Gifu Prefecture, Shirakawa-go feels like a place frozen in time. With its steep thatched-roof farmhouses, misty valleys, and slow rural pace, visiting this UNESCO World Heritage village is less about ticking off a sightseeing spot and more about stepping gently into Japan’s past. A Glimpse into History Shirakawa-go’s history stretches back over 1,000 years, shaped largely by its isolated geography. Heavy snowfall in winter once cut the village off from the outside world, forcing residents to become self-sufficient and tightly knit as a community. The village is most famous for its gasshō-zukuri houses , a traditional architectural style named after hands pressed together in prayer. These steeply slanted roofs were designed to prevent heavy snow from accumulating and collapsing the structure. Remarkably, the roofs are built without nails, relying instead on intricate wooden joinery. Historically, these large homes housed extended families and suppo...

Japan, 〒506-0021 Gifu, Takayama, Nadamachi, 6 Chome−６−4 Dinner at 飛騨米屋食事処 wasn’t part of the plan—it was more of a last-minute save. A Bit of Chaos Before Dinner We had somewhere else in mind initially, but when we arrived… it was closed. With options getting limited, we ended up randomly picking 飛騨米屋食事処. Timing-wise, we barely made it: Upon entering, we were told the kitchen had already closed Only one set meal was available About 30 minutes after we sat down, the restaurant closed completely So this was really a “just in time” situation. The Meal With no choices, we both had the same set. Overall, the food was not too bad—simple, comforting, and honestly quite satisfying after the stress of hunting for dinner. Hida Beef (Second Time, Better Experience) What made this meal feel more special was how it echoed something we had just experienced earlier in the day— Hida beef cooked on a magnolia leaf . At first, it felt like just a unique way of cooking. But the more we saw it around Tak...

Address: Japan, 〒506-0011 Gifu, Takayama, Honmachi, 2 Chome−５２ There’s something quietly magical about starting your day at Don Coffee . It’s not the kind of café that chases trends or reinvents itself for social media. Instead, it feels like a place that has simply… stayed the same —and that’s exactly what makes it special. First Impressions: Stuck in Time (In the Best Way) Walking into Don Coffee is like opening the door to the past. The moment you step inside, you feel it: Dim, warm lighting that softens everything Dark wooden furniture worn in just the right way Walls that seem to carry decades of quiet conversations Nothing here is polished or modern—and that’s the charm. It’s not staged nostalgia; it feels authentic, almost untouched by time. Like the café has been sitting here for years, watching the world outside change while it stays exactly as it is. It gives off that unmistakable “Showa-era kissaten” vibe— a place where time slows down the second you sit. The Breakfast Set: ...

Address: 56-2 Aioimachi, Takayama, Gifu 506-0014, Japan We arrived at Takayama at 6 pm and head out for dinner to  Menya Shirakawa Annex around 7pm and were pleasantly surprised— no queue at all , which already felt like a small win. Service was quick and efficient, and the staff were genuinely friendly and welcoming. Bonus points for having an English menu , which makes ordering easy for non-Japanese diners. Menya Shirakawa serves Takayama ramen , a regional style from Gifu Prefecture. Unlike the heavier tonkotsu ramen many of us are used to, Takayama ramen features: A soy sauce-based broth built on chicken stock Enhanced with fish (bonito) and vegetables, simmered for hours A darker, almost black-looking soup with deep umami flavour Curly noodles designed to absorb the broth well Toppings like flame-grilled chashu and a generous amount of spring onions, which are a specialty of the region It’s a style that leans more towards clean, layered flavours rather than richness. What We ...

We headed to Takayama and stayed at Amanek Hotel , a relatively new hotel that just opened in October 2025  and it definitely shows in the overall condition and design. Rooms The rooms were spacious (for Japan standards), very clean, modern, and tastefully furnished. Everything felt new and well put together, with a modern aesthetic that made the stay comfortable and relaxing. Facilities One of the highlights is the onsen located on Level 9. Includes a sauna and common bath area There is also a  mixed-gender section where bathing suits are required A nice spot to unwind after a long day The hotel also has a small lounge area with added perks: Dango served from 7–9pm Drinks available from 3–7pm These little extras made the stay feel more thoughtful and enjoyable. Parking Parking is available at two locations, but it is first come, first served , so you may need to plan ahead if you’re driving. The second parking space is a walking distance from hotel. Facilities (Lau...

At nagoya, I tried two very different food spots — a lively izakaya experience at Sekai no  Yamachan and a quieter, more comforting stop at T subame Milk & Bread . Both couldn’t be more different, but each had its own charm. Sekai no Yamachan — Peppery Wings & Izakaya Bites 3 Chome-9-16 Nishiki, Naka Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 460-0003, Japan I first visited Yamachan, famous for its Nagoya-style chicken wings, and it definitely lived up to its reputation — at least for the wings. Fried Chicken Wings (Tebasaki) The highlight of the meal. The skin was super crispy , and what really stood out was the heavy punch of black pepper . It’s not your typical saucy wing — more of a dry, spice-forward flavour. If you enjoy bold seasoning, this definitely hits the spot. I paired it with an umeshu soda , which turned out to be a great choice — refreshing with a slight sweetness that balanced the strong peppery kick nicely. Fried Garlic Rice This one was a bit underwhelming. The rice lacked fra...

Japan has a talent for turning everyday things into experiences — even something as simple as buying winter wear or checking into a small hotel. On this trip, two things stood out: a very successful shopping spree at UNIQLO Japan , and an unexpectedly delightful stay at Base Layer Hotel Nagoya . Here’s my full review — personal, honest, and exactly what made both moments special. UNIQLO Japan (Nagoya Gate Tower Store) – My Best Shopping Haul Yet 1 Chome-1-3 Meieki, Nakamura Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 450-6611, Japan I always enjoy browsing UNIQLO, but shopping in Japan is on a completely different level. Prices are better, the options are wider, and the shopping experience feels smoother and calmer. What I Bought (and Loved): ✔ J.W. Anderson Winter Collection I couldn’t resist the JWA winter buys — the textures, the colors, the patterns, the slight modern British twist. Everything felt premium without the hefty designer price tag. It’s the kind of collaboration that actually looks and feels b...

Takayama was meant to be our base for visiting Shirakawa-go, but getting there didn’t go exactly as planned. Originally, everything was supposed to be straightforward. We had already booked and paid for the scenic train ride from Nagoya to Takayama — one of those slower journeys where you can just sit back and enjoy the countryside views. But two weeks before the trip, we realised something was very wrong. The Mistake Our plan was to pick up a rental car and drive to Shirakawa-go from Takayama. But when we double-checked the booking… we realised we had selected the wrong car pickup location. Instead of Takayama, the pickup point was Tateyama about 2 hours away. At that point, there wasn’t much we could do: The car booking couldn’t be easily changed The location didn’t make sense with our train plan So we had to rethink everything. Last-Minute Change With only two weeks to go, we made the call to cancel the train ride (which we had already paid for) and switch plans completely. Ins...

Our Day 1 in Nagoya was powered almost entirely by food. After landing from a red‑eye flight and dropping our bags, we eased into the city the best way possible — with good coffee, comforting noodles, and an indulgent beef dinner. Quick Meal:  Kishimen at Sumiyoshi (Surprisingly Good!) Japan, 〒450-0002 Aichi, Nagoya, Nakamura Ward, Meieki, 1 Chome−1−4 名古屋駅 構内 JR名古屋駅 3・4番ホーム Our first proper meal of the trip was something truly local: Kishimen a classic Nagoya specialty at Sumiyoshi, located right on JR Nagoya Station’s Platform 3/4.  This spot is famous among commuters and travellers for its fast, flavourful, and affordable bowls. It’s a standing-only counter. Most of the toppings here — like the prawns and beef — are ready‑made or frozen, something you’d expect from a train‑station eatery. But what surprised us was how good everything still tasted. The noodles were soft, silky, and a gentle bite, and the prawns/beef were satisfying despite being pre‑prepared. T...

  1.  Nagoya Castle — Pretty from the Outside, but Closed for Visitors 1-1 Honmaru, Naka Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 460-0031, Japan Nagoya Castle was having a free open‑house day due to the ongoing Nagoya Matsuri , which normally would be perfect — except the main castle tower has actually been closed to visitors since 2018.  So even though the grounds were open, the interior wasn’t accessible. We still walked around the exterior, and the castle is genuinely pretty from the outside. The combination of green roofs with its golden shachihoko shimmering and clean white walls,  the entire castle looks very striking. It photographs beautifully and has a calm vibe despite the festival crowd. As for the Honmaru Palace , it looked impressive and is well‑known for its gold leaf screens and restored interiors. But unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to visit it properly, so we skipped it this round. Overall, our stop at Nagoya Castle was short — more of a visual appreciat...